Unused clothes from online giants Shein and Temu are flooding Danish recycling centres—and being rejected.
At the Aabenraa Municipality recycling centres, visitors will no longer find second-hand clothes labelled Shein or Temu. The local utility company, Arwos, has decided to stop sending clothing from these Chinese platforms for resale after growing concerns about chemical safety and product quality.
“We’ve become aware that much of this clothing may contain unwanted or even harmful chemicals,” said Carsten Hjort Petersen, department manager for Arwos Waste. “So we no longer sell them in our stores if we can identify them as coming from China.”
From resale to waste
Until recently, donated clothing—whether used or new—was sorted and resold through second-hand shops operated by the municipality. But the flow of unused, low-cost garments from Chinese e-commerce sites has changed the equation.
Arwos reports that more residents are dropping off clothing that has never been worn, often still bearing price tags. “We’re seeing a clear rise in unused garments, especially from Shein,” Petersen said. “People buy large quantities because it’s so cheap, then realize they don’t want or need it.”
Many of these items now end up being recycled or incinerated rather than resold. The sorting process is challenging, as some garments arrive without labels, but workers are trained to recognize Shein and Temu’s distinctive packaging and styles.
Safety and regulation concerns
The decision reflects broader concerns about the chemical safety and production standards of ultra-fast fashion imports. The Danish Consumer Council Think supports Arwos’s move, warning that some garments from these platforms may pose health risks.
“Certain items can contain allergenic or even carcinogenic substances,” said senior advisor Nikola Kiørboe. “There can also be safety issues in children’s clothing—such as cords that present a choking hazard.”
Kiørboe argues that the burden should not fall solely on municipal recyclers. “The real issue is upstream. We need stronger controls on what’s allowed to be sold in the first place,” she said.
Temu, in a statement to Danish broadcaster DR, maintained that all sellers on its platform must comply with EU and Danish safety standards. Shein did not respond to requests for comment.
Policy response and the scale of waste
In 2024, Denmark’s Ministry of Business and Industry established a task force to coordinate efforts against illegal or unsafe products sold on online marketplaces such as Shein and Temu. The move mirrors growing EU scrutiny of ultra-fast fashion platforms, which are often accused of evading product safety checks and environmental regulations.
Arwos collected around 180 tons of textiles at its recycling centres last year—an amount that continues to grow. The company’s experience offers a glimpse into the downstream consequences of the global fast fashion economy: cheap clothes designed for short use, quickly discarded, and difficult to recycle safely.
The EU Response
Product Safety: The EU’s Digital Services Act (DSA) now requires marketplaces like Shein and Temu to remove unsafe listings within 24 hours of notice.
Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR): Denmark and Sweden are moving toward textile EPR schemes, which make producers financially responsible for post-consumer waste.
EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR): Expected to set minimum durability and chemical safety standards for textiles by 2026.
The larger picture
This is not just a local waste management issue. It’s a symptom of how the ultra-fast fashion model—driven by algorithms, overproduction, and near-zero pricing—creates more garments than consumers can realistically wear.
Municipalities are now left managing the environmental and health fallout. For the Nordic region, which prides itself on circular economy principles, the lesson is clear: sustainability cannot depend on recycling alone. It has to start with stricter import standards and a cultural shift away from disposable fashion.
| Textile Waste in Denmark – Key Figures | The EU Response |
| • 180 tons of textiles delivered to Aabenraa recycling centres in 2024 • 30% increase in unsellable clothing over the past two years • 1 in 5 garments received are unused | Product Safety: The EU’s Digital Services Act (DSA) now requires marketplaces like Shein and Temu to remove unsafe listings within 24 hours of notice.Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR): Denmark and Sweden are moving toward textile EPR schemes, which make producers financially responsible for post-consumer waste.EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR): Expected to set minimum durability and chemical safety standards for textiles by 2026. |
| Source: Arwos, Danish Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) |